Day 1 of SA Menswear Week
(SAMW) for me turned out to be cool, enough. Started off rather punk-ish and
went into a spiritual journey followed on by adolescence and closed off on some
modern African vibes with a tribute to great local artists. Terrible lighting,
awkward spacing and shows running an hour and more late were only saved by the
fact that practically all the designers of the night delivered. Here is a
favourite from Wednesday, 3 February 2016:
Martin
Kadinda
The Martin Kadinda collection
was a direct translation of its theme – Winter Sun. The collection was warm and
grounded with chocolates and browns, earthy colours that seemed to translate
better than anticipated against the yellow. For me, the bright lightness of the
collection was a breath of fresh air. AW should not always be about dark moody
colours. Martin once again showcased his appreciation for a tailored
silhouette, presenting cuts close to the body yet technically allowing the body
freedom to move comfortably. The coats were rather masculine but had a bit of
flair with collar, lapel and even some shaping design moments that hinted a
slight bit of drama. Overall, I felt the collection was thought through
properly especially since there were no repeat styles in different patterns (my
worst fashion enemy).
Kidd
Hunta by Taf The Taylor
Kidd Hunta by Taf The Taylor
presented a muted collection that took to the runway to showcase a brave new
direction for the Taf The Taylor brand. The collection, mostly sporty infused
with urban jungle nuances of tailoring, focused on an active guy who was not
going to be stopped by the weather in doing what he needed to do. The collection is predominantly cut
close to the body with stylised design moments on outerwear. The collection is
definitely a brave move from the designer and one that will likely sell well in
retail spaces.
Starting off with a pop of
colour and working the collection back to black, Maxivive presented a
combination of waterproof outerwear and sports luxe apparel. It was a
refreshing take on pulling two styles and meshing into one. The silhouettes
were tall and skinny, pretty much like one would expect an athlete to be. The
more dressed jacket jackets presented interesting detailing moments, such as
the pleated back on the green blazer. Pieces allowed moments to where some to
work and still be ready for drinks later without the need of a wardrobe change.
Photographs by Larry English Photography.
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