Photograph by Ulrich Knoblauch |
In a world and
industry where women dominate, not just by numbers but by preferential
treatment, one is both amazed and grateful when a designer, male and designing
for men, emerges from the smoke and into the sky. Stiaan Louw is one such
designer. With a knack for threads that cater to both style and individualism,
his designs transcend onto a level all on their own. Stiaan Louw captivates
respects both locally and internationally. With numerous local showcases at
fashion weeks and global appearances to reinforce his talents, such as a cover
of the uber-creative design magazine, Wallpaper,
and a spot at London Fashion Week 2011, you cannot help but keep both eyes on
him and your credit card ready to take a swipe at him. Renaissance Men brings
you a somewhat personal Q&A with the designer.
Stiaan,
thanks for your time. Can you quickly give us a brief profile on who is Stiaan
Louw?
SL: Eponymous menswear brand based in Cape
Town.
Was
fashion your initial goal or dream, or did it happen by chance?
SL: I
was fortunate to know what I wanted to be, that I wanted to work in fashion, as
far back as the age of 13. I have been
quite single-minded about it since leaving highschool.
What
do you believe or know has motivated you and your success?
SL: I've have always been naturally ambitious and
very passionate. I believe this is what
has kept me moving forward.
Why
become a menswear designer, as opposed to a womenswear designer?
SL: I established a womenswear brand in 2004,
merely because my peers were taking that direction and the independent design
sphere seemed too new for a progressive menswear brand. In 2008 I naturally shifted to menswear,
detecting new opportunities to promote menswear that is directional. Social media opened a new platform from which
to promote the brand to an emerging local market as well as a more established
international industry. It has been a
challenging shift. But menswear is what
I am naturally drawn to, for its subtle nuances but also because there is so
much room for experimentation and for challenging traditional perceptions.
Images courtesy of stiaanlouw.blogspot.com |
Images courtesy of stiaanlouw.blogspot.com |
Images courtesy of stiaanlouw.blogspot.com |
Images courtesy of stiaanlouw.blogspot.com |
Images courtesy of stiaanlouw.blogspot.com |
Describe
your experience of the menswear industry in South Africa?
SL: I have seen numerous menswear brands emerge
in the last year. But without the
necessary manufacturing support and nurturing, I believe many of these brands
will disappear as quickly as they have been formed. Contemporary menswear retail in South Africa
is incredibly challenging with few outlets available to stock and most operate
on a consignment basis. I also believe
it is important to establish a unique design signature if you are going to
develop your label to a brand and take it beyond the challenges faced by
menswear designers here.
You’re
obviously one of the designers that have grown with the industry, and have
subsequently played a major role in shaping how menswear is approached by both
industry and consumers. Do you see the role you’ve played in this blossoming
industry, and what is your take on it?
SL: I believe my work has shown that it is
possible for a local menswear designer to move beyond the perceived design limitations
in South African menswear. I can only
hope that it is inspiring a new generation to step up and find its own unique
voices. I'm not sure whether my work
has had any impact on the consumer at large, as it has always been quite niche,
but I hope that the industry itself has noticed the commitment I have had
towards shifting the perception of menswear in SA.
You
might be a local but your name is international, talk us through the experience
at London Fashion Week 2011 as part of the Ubuntu International Project.
SL: I have had numerous offers to show on
international platforms over the years, but the show with the Ubuntu Project
made it accessible for the first time.
The experience is no different to shows here. The shows produced by AFI set an exceptionally
high standard and local designers are fortunate to have this platform and the
support from a media and PR perspective.
The difference however is that if you manage to garner attention at the
shows in London, buyers and potential backing is sure to follow. But this in itself is incredibly difficult to
achieve. I approached the London show as
a learning experience from the outset, and without any unrealistic expectations. I also had the experience of showing in SA
for 8 years prior, so I was able to enjoy the process and stay objective.
Credits for the above images:
London Fashion Week
Ubuntu International Project
Photographer - Jacobus Snyman
Model - Eric Best, BOSS Models
Accessories - Missibaba
Jewellery - Ida-Elsje
And
what about the Wallpaper magazine
cover. Kudos to you. It looked great. How did that come about and what was the
response like locally after it was published?
SL: Thank you.
I was one of two local designers optioned for the cover. I was contacted
by the fashion director of Wallpaper a few weeks before the shoot. He sent images from previous collections I
had done to give an idea of what they envisioned for the cover. I was at the start of the collection I showed
at Joburg Fashion Week in 2011, so the timing was perfect. I worked with local stylist Chrisna de Bruyn
and was surprised to hear that I had not only landed the cover, but also the
opener for the South African section. It
is still one of my favourite experiences, and Laurence Ellis, who photographed
my 2008 Summer collection and the cover, is one of my favourite photographers.
Describe
the kind of reception you’ve received thus far from the global markets?
SL: I have been fortunate to get exposure from
international blogs and numerous magazines.
Occasionally I am also surprised when clients contact me from places
like Sweden for instance. The digital
world has made it possible to step outside of your geographical loacation and
reach new followers globally. It will
always remain a challenge being based at the Southern tip of Africa on all
levels, but it is not impossible to overcome this.
Having
experienced both the international and local markets and industries, what would
you say are the key differences the world can teach us and that we can teach
the world?
SL: My experience is still quite limited. However, if we want to compete we have
numerous challenges. Internationally
designers have access to technology we haven't begun to explore and they are
fiercely competitive, constantly challenging the limitations in design and
originality. On the other hand we have a
fresh perspective. I realised in London just how different my approach was,
even though I thought it might be similar to designers there. Our geography, social and economic landscape,
plays into the development of a unique design approach. And the designers who work to rise above the
limitations here are developing an aesthetic that is refreshingly unique even
if subtly so.
Internationally,
who are your favourite menswear designers and why?
SL: I enjoyed the last collection from
Christopher Bailley for Burberry, Rick Owens, Raf Simons for his approach to
minimal cut and innovative application of fabrics, and Hedi Slimane for the
work he did at Dior. Damir Doma, Kim
Jones at Louis Vuitton for developing exceptionally crafted menswear products
as well as Walter von Beirendonck and Bernhard Willhelm for their offbeat
perspectives. It changes each
season. Prada for reinventing the norm.
Images courtesy of Simon Deiner (SDRPhoto) |
Images courtesy of Simon Deiner (SDRPhoto) |
Locally,
who are the menswear players making a good stir in the industry, apart from
yourself, and why?
SL: I
feel too many local menswear designers follow trends. We need to shift our perspective and start
creating them. I have a huge amount of
respect for Craig Port for his business sensibility and for being the first
'independent menswear designer' in my mind.
What
would you like to see happening in and with menswear in SA?
SL: There is little support for menswear
designers in South Africa. I would love
to see the chainstores creating collaborations with menswear designers in the
same way they have with womenswear designers.
Describe
the kind of role or influence you see the Stiaan Louw brand playing in menswear
in SA in coming years?
SL: I can only hope that my brand grows from
strength to strength inspiring new designers to push the boundaries and
overcome perceived limitations.
Who
would you love to collaborate with?
SL: I have been fortunate to work with two of my
favourite designers, Missibaba and Ida-Elsje, on numerous collections and
continue to be inspired by them. The
list of creatives I would like to collaborate with is endless. I would love to collaborate with Mr Price on
a commercial retail collection.
Images by Sivan Miller |
Images by Sivan Miller |
What
can we expect next from Stiaan Louw?
SL: We are about to launch our new collection,
the first since the '6' series via a series of campaigns in collaboration with
art director Michael Cooper, whom I have
worked with for over two years, and photographer Neil Roberts. I am excited about this new direction.
Define
the South African Renaissance man.
SL: I think he could be defined by our '6' series
in which we asked what it means to be 'African' and 'South African'. He is an amalgamation of all cultures in
South Africa, proudly South African, but globally conscious.
Your
top 3 style tips for SA men?
SL: Find your own voice.
I see too many carbon style copies.
Don't be scared of celebrating your culture. Mix it into your wardrobe
in a modern, unexpected way. And lastly,
every man needs a proper suit, make sure you own one that is perfect in every
aspect.
How
or Where can one acquire a Stiaan Louw original?
SL: We
currently have a bespoke tailoring service, email stiaan_louw@yahoo.com
Wallpeper* Magazine Cover - November 2010 |
And
there you have it. It’s evident the possibilities are endless for this young
designer and that he takes his experiences with a pinch of salt and as part of
smaller steps going towards the bigger picture in his career. We can definitely
expect to see more work from Stiaan and can be prepared to be left in awe time
and time again. Luckily for us, Stiaan’s work is available online to view, so
you can catch up on any collections you might have missed in his career. Check
below for links to his online portfolio and his blog and keep clicking on to
this space to see the new campaign.
Follow
Stiaan:
Twitter:
@stiaanlouw
Portfolio:
http://pinterest.com/stiaanlouw/
4 comments:
It's Christopher BaiLey and Walter vAn Beirendonck.
From wiki:
"The distinguishing points of bespoke tailoring are the buyer's total control over the fabric used, the features and fit, and the way the garment should be made." - No, I think he means made-to-measure.
Otherwise, nice questions and answers.
Stiaan Louw touched upon aspects of the fashion industry I was not certainly aware of. I am now aware of how fickle the SA fashion industry is. At the same token, it certainly does not take away the excitement we ( us so called fashionistas) have for the industry as well as for the future going ahead.
I am looking forward with bated breath to the work he, art director Michael Cooper and photographer Neil Roberts are going to be sharing with us. The campaign showcased currently in this blog is awesome. The styling and art direction of the campaign makes it known that the brand is deeply rooted in Africa.
It surely inspires a much needed African Renaissance...
As far as I know he has a bespoke and made to measure service.
Thanks people for reading and commenting.
And yes, Stiaan does provide a fully bespoke service.
You can email him on the address provided to experience the luxury first hand.
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