Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Collections: A. Sauvage Autumn Winter 2013 - Menswear

I can’t recall the first time I discovered A. Sauvage. I do recall I was looking at a photo of Mos Def in one of the brand’s suits. A cream two-button ensemble with a distinctively Art Deco graphic pattern. I remember looking at it and thinking ‘that’s a great looking suit’. Some time passed and I did other things and then I came across some images again. I put together a rather lazy post on the brand and then I went about my way again. Fashion weeks came and went and then, there was A. Sauvage AW2013.

And thank you.

Adrien Victor Sauvage is the man behind the sublimely tailored brand A. Sauvage. The man is of Ghanaian descent… So hopefully I’ll bump into him at Ghana Fashion and Design Week later this year (hint hint). His Autumn Winter 2013 collection is one that politely takes its cues from the insanely energetic and spontaneous style of works by artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.

It’s difficult to pin down what it is you’re looking at when you see the collection through its look book. It all seems so every day wear yet you can sense its luxury and opulence. So is casual wear the new couture? Maybe, for guys at least. The ease of the garments illustrates man’s necessity for clothing that he can slip into without feeling like he’s part of fashion but also not sticking out as a past trend.

It’s simplicity is almost primitive, in that it takes everything away of modern concepts of men’s fashion and styling and leaves you with only the bear essentials to make a look work and the entire collection fits into any time period. His day wear pieces incorporate raglan sleeves, which are by far the most comfortable and ‘active’ type of sleeves any one could use on a garment. Raglan sleeves are usually found on more sportswear/activewear type of garments, including the more luxury leisurewear items. Panelling and slim collars also make an entrance to add to the details of tailoring.

The consideration made for the garments further begs appreciation to extend its presence. With a frill of fabrics used in the collection you understand that its simplicity may be viewed but its splendor will be felt. From sports jersey and cashmere wool, clean neoprene and bias cut silk twill panels; A. Sauvage also introduces a highly textured casentino wool and water-shrunk nubuck leather. Keeping with Basquiat’s spontaneity Adrien flips the seam on eveningwear with the dropping of external pockets and switching of traditional fasteners to use a more ‘casual’ hook-and-eye closure. This collection also features signature pieces including the wide-leg trouser, deconstructed jackets and printed outerwear in soft colours of white and light grey to a much warmer orange.

After all is said and done, the wide-rimmed Homburg hats designed in collaboration with Christy’s are my lover. They add a sort of gentleman stamp of approval to the entire collection.

A. Sauvage is available online and I recommend you get yourself one or two items to complete your wardrobe this AW2013.

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